Friday, September 28, 2012

Big surf Friday

Met up with Tim and Rich (making his debut) for another B&B. Knew as soon as I got to South Steyne that it was going to be a tough swim as the waves were rolling in, lots of them!

I hesitantly ventured in and immediately got barrelled backwards by the first wave, eventually thrashing my way through the waves to the point. This was where it got worse as the swell continued to rise, one minute I was at the trough of a wave, the next I was on the crest. Crazy stuff and it just kept coming, relentlessly with no breaks. At one point I seriously considered turning around and going home - I just didn't feel comfortable at all and was starting to hyperventilate.

After flailing around for a while, concentrating on my breathing, I decided to give it a go to Shelly and then reassess there, seeing others who were also struggling in the big surf.

After the customary go, we were off and I got my head down. The trouble was I couldn't see Shelly in amongst the big swell.

Suffice to say it didn't get any better as the waves continued to roll in, on and under me as I made my way to Shelly. Poor Rich making his debut in these conditions - definitely the worst surf I have ever swum in.

I actually followed Rich for most of the journey across, eventually surfacing at Shelly and counting my blessings that I was still alive! There were even people behind me who had also struggled across.
After a couple of minutes rest we turned around and went again - this time with the option to stop at half way beach and walk the rest of the way - an option I seriously considered...until I realised I didn't know where it was and was breathing out of the wrong side to navigate anyway!

So...after numerous does of HTFU I headed across the point again, more swell, more swallowing of water, more waves breaking, following a couple of others who also seemed to be struggling.
The aim was to swim past the point and turn in, to avoid the possibility of being washed up on the rocks...eventually turning left to head to the beach.

From here it was relatively plain sailing, with the waves actually helping my journey to the beach.

I eventually stood up and waded the last few metres  - very thankful it was all over!

In hindsight it was probably a great session to get used to the surf...if I was intending to do any surf races, which I'm not. Still, the more time I spend in choppy water I guess the more prepared I will be for all eventualities.

Having said all that I am sat at my desk still bobbing up and down!

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